Product Review Competition Winner

Thank you everyone for entering our product review competition. There were some terrific entries and very usefull and informative reviews entered. These are great for everyone, particularly if you are trying to decide what to spend your hard earned cash on.

Some of you even sent us links to your u-tube videos, thank you for that  they are great, hear is one for one of our harnesses http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28tIIOtf9mw

Well done to   Kim Johnson  you are our winner, you reviewed a total of 12 different items for us and your name was picked out of the hat and your voucher is on its way to you.  For everyone else who left us a review we set up a Discount Voucher Review enter this code in our checkout before friday 21st of March and we will give you 10% off your order jsut to say thank you.

We got a ton of reviews particluaryl for rabbit hutches, below are some of the reveiws we have for jus two of our rabbit hutches.

Natura Large Rabbit Hutch and Run

Author: Sarah Thompson “”"I have received the hutch and built it today – I am really pleased with the quality. Great value.”" “

Author: Bernadette Brady “Thanks very mutch for providing us with a great hutch and now a very safe and happy rabbit”

Author: Simon Oakerbee “I just wanted to say what a great service you provided. We placed the order for the Rabbit hutch and it was with us within two days very easy to build and great quality”

Author: Eden Cooper I recieved the hutch and built it today. It comes flatpack and is very easy to put together. It is very quick delivery. I am 10 and my dad helped me and even I could do it! I think it is great I just have to wait for my rabbit now! Thanks for such a great service.

Author: Mick Timpson A very long time ago I used to breed rabbits and made my own hutches. I have never made one as good as this. It’s so versatile and practical, easy to dismantle for cleaning with superb access to all compartments. Like most rabbits ‘Cocoa’ uses what might be seen as the sleeping area for his toilet and he kips by the caged bit at the top. The plasticised floor makes cleaning simple and hygienic with no chance of urine rot destroying the timber.The only modification I found necessary was to manufacture a bracket to secure the ramp to the back wall so that we can move the hutch around the lawn with no bother. I am very pleased with this product and having owned it for 18 months or so have no complaints whatever.

Author: Janet Adams Good value for money. However to make it draft proof, needed to board the bottom of the hutch.

 

Natura Delux 6ft x 3ft x 4ft Rabbit Hutch and Run Combo

Author: Vanessa Hill This hutch has been great as it actually gives plenty of room for my bunny to run around both outside and inside. The cover is an excellent idea and keeps the bad weather out-we just keep the hutch end covered in Spring so he still can get fresh air downstairs. The bunny obviously loves this hutch as now, when I open the downstairs door he pops out into the garden for a second and then runs back inside! We did add some metal bolts onto the doors for greater security against foxes but apart from that its built well. We are all very pleased with this product. Delivery was as efficient as ever from this company-very good.

Author: lesley doyle my rabbits love this hutch, they never in the top, they always down stairs, as they love the fresh air, and freedom to move

Author: Miss J Richardson Great product and fast delivery. Easy to assemble. Ideal for two bunnies.

Darius Crowned World Largest Rabbit.

Darius the Coninental Giant bunny Has been crowned The Biggest Bunny in the World. At over 4′ long and weighing more than 3 1/2 stone he really is a heavy weight and he is still growing.

Initially Ms Edwards thought that Alice would be the pick of the litter but Darius really has proven to be “Big Brother”. A spokesman from Guinness World Records said: “This is the biggest bunny in the world. Darius is bigger than all the previous record holding rabbits. It’s unbelievable that a rabbit could grow to over four-foot long.”

Ms Edwards from Worcester has bred a lot of very large bunnies, here offspting have held the title for quite some time. Darius’s mother Amy also held the title  and having had over 30 offspring daruis really is pick of the bunch. These contintal giants are so large they have to live in dog kennels as even the largest rabbit hutch is just not big enough!!

Read the full story in the telegraph.

Top Bunny Care: Things to Consider Before Buying a Pet Rabbit

Rabbit Hutches, Rabbit Runs, Rabbit Accessories and Rabbit Food are subjects of great interest to rabbit owners – and rabbits, too, as they would tell us, if they could talk. It is worth getting all of these right from Day One, to be sure of giving your pet bunny the happiest life possible.

The most vulnerable part of the hutch is the spot where your rabbit most frequently urinates. Naturally, the resulting wetness can begin to rot the hutch floor, no matter what it is made of. Among the solutions are: when you first get your hutch, treat it inside with a wood treatment, such as Good for Wood, or similar wax-based product; carry out frequent hutch cleaning, including scraping the wet matter as this should ensure that Bunny continues to use just one area as a lavatory. Otherwise, the rabbit will be driven to select other corners as the original one becomes too dirty. Always have an adequate covering of shavings on the hutch floor, especially thick in that toilet area. Best of all, buy a litter tray, which of course acts as a barrier between the urine and the wood floor.

The next most vulnerable part of the hutch is the roof. This needs to have a covering of roofing felt or asphalt for protection against water penetration. Normally, such roof protection comes as standard. Being sure never to place objects on top will prolong the life of the roof. Probably the best design is the apex roof. For one thing, one isn’t tempted to store anything on top! Secondly, just like a house, the hutch with an apex roof has the least risk of rainwater getting in. Generally, the entire exterior of a rabbit hutch needs to be retreated regularly always with an animal-friendly product.

Let’s stray from the subject of Rabbit Hutches, for a moment, to one that exerts greater fascination: food. Rabbits are cheap and easy to keep as far as feeding goes. Roughage is important, partly as a means of preventing hairballs from forming. The best way to provide this is by giving the rabbit a daily supply of hay. Munching standard meadow hay has the added benefit of chasing away boredom. Younger rabbits can benefit from the nutrients found in alfalfa hay.

Next in importance are leafy vegetables and the green stalks chopped off when human food is being prepared. Go easy on vegetables that are high in calcium, such as broccoli and kale. Provided you haven’t been using any weed killer or other chemicals, the free food from your garden, especially rabbits’ great favourite, dandelion leaves, can be given. Grass is the most obvious free food, but rather than taking it to your pet, allows the rabbit outdoor time in a run or pen when he can do his own grazing for himself!

Rabbits can eat a small amount of fruit too, but not so much as would cause diarrhoea. Bananas, apples, peeled oranges and nectarines are fine, in small quantities.

Material comforts are, of course, not enough. That makes the next priority human attention. This should take the form of handling and stroking, but not teasing. It is for this reason that many people advocate indoor living for pet rabbits. If the bunny gets to be part of the family, hopping around the living room (supervised, of course), approaching human family members for cuddles, and learning to relax in the humans’ environment, then everyone gains. (It needs to be said that at no time should a rabbit be loose on its own in a room with electrical wires, since chewing through those is likely to be its very first thought!)

To take the companionship theme a little further, rabbits can be trained to be taken for walks. Admittedly, it won’t be like walking the dog, since your bunny doesn’t tend to maintain the same pace and rhythm as its human companion. More accurately, putting your rabbit on harness and lead is more likely to result in mooching around the garden, than actual walking! You can buy a soft, purpose-designed harness and lightweight lead from most pet supply companies. Additional accessories to help with the bonding process include grooming items and toys. The latter can take the form of found objects, such as cardboard boxes and tubes, balls made by crumpling up newspaper and empty cotton reels (not the tiniest). Plastic toys in the form of rattles, balls and tunnels can be purchased. While some of these can be placed in Rabbit Hutches to give the inhabitant a little diversion, the best place for toys is in the pen, whether indoors or out.

If trawling the market, whether for Rabbit Hutches at one extreme or small accessories at the end, be sure to look for recommendations and customer comments on the web, before you plump for a specific product.

Making a Rabbit hutch A Home.

Creating the right habitat for a rabbit – one that will keep Thumper happy and alive for as many years as possible – is a challenge, and one worth spending money on. As family pets (ranking third in popularity in the UK) rabbits provide a great deal of pleasure. Sociable and highly watchable soft-furred, docile creatures, they can give endless pleasure.

Rabbits are popular for several reasons: 1) they are fairly inexpensive to keep, their dry food and hay being quite cheap to buy, not to mention the fact that they thrive on leftover peelings, stalks of vegetables discarded during food preparation, carrot tops and unwanted old lettuce leaves. As a supplement, the contents of used teabags do them a world of good; 2) they are uncomplaining, don’t sleep all day, as hamsters and guinea pigs tend to do, welcome human attention, and are big enough to pick up and cuddle.

It isn’t too much to ask, therefore, that they be housed comfortably. Even though a bunny’s facial expression is not exactly easy to read, there can be no mistaking the listlessness when a rabbit is suffering from depression. To ensure Bunny’s mental well-being, it is important to provide a spacious, draught-free rabbit hutch and to site it where he will see activity and, above all, will be visited frequently.

The standard wooden structure, often made of lapped planks of one type or another, is attractive-looking and breathable. Any other materials for the construction of a rabbit hutch should be viewed with scepticism. A sloping roof – ideally an apex one – which has been covered with Asphalt is a good idea. The roof needs to overlap sufficiently for rain to run off. (It is not a bad idea to apply house architecture principles – I have seen a young IT-literate pet owner designing her rabbit hutch using Sketch-Up software.) A completely flat roof guarantees that sooner or later Bunny will be the victim of damp. Rabbits have fairly delicate constitutions and can easily become ill if living in a damp environment. Flat-roofed hutches are on the market, but are entirely intended for indoor use. None of these decisions would normally present any difficulties, but for the fact that there are so many woefully inadequate hutches on sale.

Rabbit Shack, Trixie, The Rabbit Hutch Shop and Happy Hutch are just four of the many rabbit hutch brand names and each company offers a range of models. The advice to all rabbit owners or prospective owners is always the same: the larger the dimensions, the happier the rabbit Ryedale Pet Homes is a company in Yorkshire building their own hutches, many of which have quite grand dimensions. Few rabbits would sniff at Ryedale’s Double Whopper, with an impressive width (Length) of 6ft, a height of 40 inches and depth of 2ft. The listed price of is £281.00 with discounts for telephoned orders.

In addition to decent housing in a well-constructed rabbit hutch, in good weather your rabbit really ought to get some outdoor fun. Placed on a lawn, it is also a convenient and free diner for your rabbit who was, after all, designed to pull up grass. The obvious thing to do is to move the run from one spot to another, ensuring that no one patch of lawn ends up bare.

Constructing a run or pen (and making regular use of it) is one of the very best things you can do for your rabbit. Ideally, this is totally enclosed, the cheapest and easiest being triangular in shape. If, however, you are willing to take a little extra trouble, or run (no pun intended), to a little more expense, a conventional cuboid with six sides including a mesh floor is likely to give your rabbit the most exercise without the risk of escape. Gnawing and burrowing are habitual behaviour for every rabbit. A floorless run, no matter how well anchored, can be got out of. When you aren’t looking, your Houdini-like furry friend is likely to make a break for it with some superfast burrowing. Equally, an unroofed run, no matter how tall the fence, represents an invitation to Bunny to practise the high jump. No matter how well enclosed, however, you need to check regularly for any gnawed wire. Thumper could easily be working, Prisoner – of – War style, on gradually enlarging a hole that you haven’t even noticed.

There are many comprehensive rabbit care guides out there, such as the RSPCA’s “Care for Your Rabbit” and “Rabbitlopaedia: A Complete Guide to Rabbit Care”, co-written by a vet and published by Ringpress Books. Finally, when it comes to choosing your rabbit hutch or rabbit pen, don’t rush into the decision, and spend your money on space, space, space.

Finding Flopsy a Home: Where should my Pet Rabbit live?

If you are embarking upon rabbit ownership – becoming a member of the bunny brigade – your biggest outlay will be on the choice of what rabbit hutch to plump for. There are lots of factors to consider when you are making that selection, or, for that matter, building the hutch yourself.

Your rabbit may be a newly-purchased youngster and you might have been tempted to invest in a starter rabbit hutch. This may look cute and dinky, but is not generally a wise economy. Top priority in most experts’ opinion, is space. Just like you, that bunny needs elbow room, or ear room (okay, only kidding). The growing pet – unless it’s a dwarf variety – in one of the smaller “starter-homes” could soon be suffering from that “I’m-a-rabbit-get-me-out-of-here” sensation, not to be wished on any domestic animal.

A serious point is that as rabbits travel by jumping, head room really is vital. On a similar note, rabbits when they sit up on those long powerful back legs grow pretty tall. Think of the Watership Down bunnies when they stretched up to check for approaching predators. Even if you are being careful to select an adult-sized hutch, remember that your rabbit while it is sitting normally is considerably more compact than he will be when stretched out resting or sleeping. Measure your lounging long-eared friend when you get the chance, then quadruple that measurement. That way you will have the ideal length for a really comfortable hutch.

So, agreed, the biggest rabbit hutch you can stretch to (Oops) is the first concern. This by no means rules out two-storey structures, provided one storey at least has good head height. In fact, the advantage of these hutches is that they help to address Priority Number Two: ensuring Thumper has separate sleeping quarters. It should be mentioned, that up until now we have been considering the accommodation needs of the single rabbit with its own ‘pad’. If you are accommodating more than one rabbit in a hutch, it will be essential to allocate a separate sleeping area for each animal. Either way, a designated sleeping area, screened from prying eyes by not having wire mesh over the front, with, of course the benefit of darkness, is a must. In addition, the litter area needs to be a reasonable size, ideally located in a far corner. Naturally, this needs regular mucking out by Bunny’s owner, not least because rabbits are very clean creatures who hate to live among their own droppings.

The next dilemma surrounds whether to keep your rabbit indoors or out. While it may seem far more natural to place the hutch out of doors, the realities of life for pet rabbits tend to dictate that you think again. The rabbit owner soon learns that Enemy Number One is Mr. Fox. There is a great deal to be said for finding a “half-way house”! In other words, you should consider housing your pet in a conservatory, utility room or lean-to, in other words a predator-proof space. It is not widely known that death from sheer fright can be brought on just by being in the presence of a fox.  If the rabbit hutch really must be positioned outdoors, place it as close to the house as possible, even if this means cluttering the patio somewhat or re-positioning plant pots and other garden features. Predators are wary of coming too close to human habitation.

With these vital factors dealt with, you can now at last have fun planning minor features such as interior accessories or the addition of a name plate.

Foxing the Fox Part Five: Using Prickle Strips to Fox Proof Your Garden.

Prickle strips are strips of plastic spikes that can attached to the top of fences, rabbit hutches, walls or rabbit runs to make them unpleasant for a fox to Jump onto.  They are relatively expensive so may not be cost effective for longer stretches they may not be an option. They are ideal for gaps in hedges or gate tops or if you have a smaller fence around your hutch.

It is possible to protect your garden and your pet rabbits by planting thick hedges of thorny pyracanthus bushes, rambling roses or hawthorn.  The effectiveness of this technique is questionable as you may well end up providing ideal cover for the foxes, an established thorny hedge that is very thick would however act as a deterrent and this may be a factor when you think about where to put your rabbit hutch.

There are some newer devices on the market that are a cross between a sprinkler and a motion detector that will spray the foxes with water as they approach. This is sure to be a hit with all action film fans and several used in combination would no doubt give foxes and everyone else something to think about.

They do however need a hose permanently attached and could quickly become a nuisance when mowing the lawn or using the garden and may end up at the back of the shed with all the other toys!

Foxing the Fox Part Three: Sonic Fox Deterrents to protect your Pets

Following on from the highly efficient dog Dazers used by council workers, postmen and cyclists there are now a number of high pitched sound devices on the market to deter foxes.  The battery operated stationary device can be placed anywhere in the garden and gives out a high pitched sound irritable to foxes.

The best of these devices have motion detectors similar to security lights and will be triggered by motion. Correctly placed these will protect your rabbit in its hutch or run.  The fox will very quickly learn that they trigger the device and will avoid the area, over time the garden will become a no go area but be sure to keep the batteries good as if a new fox or cub comes into the area you will still need the device.

These sonic devices are finely tuned and will not upset humans or pet rabbits. This type of deterrent may not be an option if you have pet dogs or a puppy, unless of course you want to keep them away for your bunnies also!

Beware the Deaf Fox!!

Have Rabbit Must Travel! How can I Help My Rabbit When We Move?

We are often asked at the rabbit hutch shop, “how can i look after my rabbit whilst travelling in the car”, so I thought I would write a few tips for anyone who has to take a rabbit on a long journey.

Some rabbits do travel well, others do not. The only way to find out is to try some short test journeys and see how your rabbit behaves at the end of it.  In many cases your rabbit will not be happy at all. Some people tell us that their rabbits travel fine and seem to be very happy when they are on the move. In most cases though, unless your bunny has been on the move from an early age, they will not take to it straight away.

There are a number of things that you can do to make your pets comfortable whilst travelling. Firstly you should get a suitable Rabbit Carrier well in advance. We come across two schools of thought with carriers. Some people go for the largest possible carrier they can, or use a small indoor cage or dog crate. Others prefer to go for a small cosy carrier that is more like your rabbit’s bed or nesting area. For rabbits that have not travelled before or that are nervous we would recommend going for something smaller that will give your rabbit added security.

Get your pet rabbit used to the carrier a couple of days or a week before you travel. Encourage them into it with treats, food and toys.  Leave the carrier open and let you rabbit sleep in it if you can. Shut your rabbit in the carrier for short periods of time without moving the carrier.

Once you are ready to travel start with short “test” journeys.  Make sure when you put the carrier in the car it is positioned so that it will not be jolted if you have to break hard. Put it behind one of the front seats or use the seat belt to secure it.

On long journeys make sure your rabbit has access to water and food. If you are travelling in warm weather consider draping a damp towl over the carrier and make sure you position the carrier out of direct sunlight.

Finally the most important thing is that you yourself are calm and happy. All pets feed from the emotions of those around them. If you are uptight about the move and anxious about your pet they simply will not settle.  If you are very concerned about travelling with your pet consider asking someone else to take your pet on short journeys so you and your pet can get used to the idea.

P.S “Hoppy Holidays”, and remember if you are happy your pets will be happy as well.

Pet Rabbits – The Five Important things Part Four

Healthy Happy Rabbits Part Four, “Company”

Make sure your rabbit has appropriate company

Facts

• Rabbits are naturally sociable and normally prefer to be with another rabbit.
• A rabbit can develop abnormal behaviour and may suffer if it is left without company and has nothing to do for long periods of time.
• Rabbits kept together will naturally form a ‘pecking order’ with some animals being more dominant than others. A rabbit can be bullied and may suffer if it cannot get away from other rabbits that it doesn’t like.
• Rabbits that are brought up together will usually always get on with each other, but if introduced for the first time as adults they may fight.
• Neutering reduces the likelihood of fighting in both male and female rabbits.
• Rabbits that are well handled by people from a young age can learn to see humans as friends and companions.
• Rabbits that receive little handling at an early age, or rough handling at any age, may find human contact distressing. This can be expressed as fearfulness, escape behaviour and aggression.
• Rabbits will usually be scared of cats and dogs because they are natural predators, but if introduced to them carefully early in life can develop friendships.

Things you should do

• Keep your rabbit with at least one other friendly rabbit, unless advised otherwise by a vet or clinical animal behaviourist. A good combination is a neutered male and a neutered female, or neutered littermates of the same sex.
• Get your rabbit neutered, unless it is intended for breeding and provisions have been made to care for both parents and offspring.
• Handle your rabbit every day from an early age. Rabbits which live indoors can see humans as important companions. If your rabbit has to be kept on its own for some reason you must provide it with companionship by interacting with it every day.
• Make sure your rabbit has places it can go to get away from companions if it wants to and that there are enough resources (e.g. shelter, food, water, hiding places) for all your rabbits at all times large rabbit hutches with multiple sleeping areas are ideal.
• Introduce new rabbits gradually and under supervision, preferably in a space that is new to both rabbits. Seek advice from a clinical animal behaviourist if you are unsure or have problems.
• When you are away make sure your rabbit is cared for by a responsible person.
• Never leave your rabbit unsupervised with another animal or person who may (deliberately or accidentally) harm or frighten it. Never leave your rabbit unsupervised with a cat or dog, even if you know they are good friends.

Pet Rabbits – The Five Important things Part One.

Healthy Happy Rabbits Part one “Environment”

Make sure your rabbit has the Perfect Place to Live

Facts

• Rabbits are athletic animals. They need the opportunity to hop, run, jump, dig, stand fully upright on their back legs, and stretch out when lying down.
• A rabbit must be able to avoid things that scare it. Rabbits are a prey species and must be able to hide in a secure place, away from the sight and smell of predators (e.g. foxes, cats, dogs, ferrets and birds of prey).
• Living in a draughty, damp, hot, poorly ventilated or dirty environment may cause your rabbit to suffer and become ill.
• A rabbit needs regular access to an appropriate place to go to the toilet.
• Rabbits are intelligent. If your rabbit is bored, and doesn’t have enough to do, it may suffer.
• Rabbits are inquisitive. If there are hazards within their environment they may easily injure themselves.

Things you should do

• Provide your pet rabbit with a secure living environment that is large enough for it to exercise in and stand up fully on its back legs.
• You should provide both a large exercise area and a secure shelter where your rabbit can rest, feel safe and is protected from predators and extremes of weather and temperature. Ensure all areas of your rabbit’s environment are well ventilated, dry and draught-free.
• Make sure your rabbit has constant access to safe hiding places where it can escape if it feels afraid.
• Allow your rabbit to exercise regularly.
• Provide enough bedding to keep your rabbit warm. Bedding should be safe for your rabbit to eat, e.g. dust-free straw or hay.
• Give your rabbit regular access to a suitable place where it can go to the toilet, separate to where it eats and sleeps.
• Clean the housing and toilet areas regularly.
• If you are going away, try to find someone to care for, and meet all your rabbit’s welfare needs within its familiar home. If boarding your rabbit, try to ease the move by keeping grouped rabbits together and taking familiar items, such as toys, along too.
• When you transport your rabbit make sure it is comfortable and safe at all times. Putting familiar smelling items in the carrier and the new environment can help make your rabbit feel at ease.
• Ensure the size and temperature of any place you leave your rabbit (including your vehicle) is appropriate.
• Make sure that where your rabbit lives is safe, secure and free from hazards

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