Making a Rabbit hutch A Home.
Creating the right habitat for a rabbit – one that will keep Thumper happy and alive for as many years as possible – is a challenge, and one worth spending money on. As family pets (ranking third in popularity in the UK) rabbits provide a great deal of pleasure. Sociable and highly watchable soft-furred, docile creatures, they can give endless pleasure.
Rabbits are popular for several reasons: 1) they are fairly inexpensive to keep, their dry food and hay being quite cheap to buy, not to mention the fact that they thrive on leftover peelings, stalks of vegetables discarded during food preparation, carrot tops and unwanted old lettuce leaves. As a supplement, the contents of used teabags do them a world of good; 2) they are uncomplaining, don’t sleep all day, as hamsters and guinea pigs tend to do, welcome human attention, and are big enough to pick up and cuddle.
It isn’t too much to ask, therefore, that they be housed comfortably. Even though a bunny’s facial expression is not exactly easy to read, there can be no mistaking the listlessness when a rabbit is suffering from depression. To ensure Bunny’s mental well-being, it is important to provide a spacious, draught-free rabbit hutch and to site it where he will see activity and, above all, will be visited frequently.
The standard wooden structure, often made of lapped planks of one type or another, is attractive-looking and breathable. Any other materials for the construction of a rabbit hutch should be viewed with scepticism. A sloping roof – ideally an apex one – which has been covered with Asphalt is a good idea. The roof needs to overlap sufficiently for rain to run off. (It is not a bad idea to apply house architecture principles – I have seen a young IT-literate pet owner designing her rabbit hutch using Sketch-Up software.) A completely flat roof guarantees that sooner or later Bunny will be the victim of damp. Rabbits have fairly delicate constitutions and can easily become ill if living in a damp environment. Flat-roofed hutches are on the market, but are entirely intended for indoor use. None of these decisions would normally present any difficulties, but for the fact that there are so many woefully inadequate hutches on sale.
Rabbit Shack, Trixie, The Rabbit Hutch Shop and Happy Hutch are just four of the many rabbit hutch brand names and each company offers a range of models. The advice to all rabbit owners or prospective owners is always the same: the larger the dimensions, the happier the rabbit Ryedale Pet Homes is a company in Yorkshire building their own hutches, many of which have quite grand dimensions. Few rabbits would sniff at Ryedale’s Double Whopper, with an impressive width (Length) of 6ft, a height of 40 inches and depth of 2ft. The listed price of is £281.00 with discounts for telephoned orders.
In addition to decent housing in a well-constructed rabbit hutch, in good weather your rabbit really ought to get some outdoor fun. Placed on a lawn, it is also a convenient and free diner for your rabbit who was, after all, designed to pull up grass. The obvious thing to do is to move the run from one spot to another, ensuring that no one patch of lawn ends up bare.
Constructing a run or pen (and making regular use of it) is one of the very best things you can do for your rabbit. Ideally, this is totally enclosed, the cheapest and easiest being triangular in shape. If, however, you are willing to take a little extra trouble, or run (no pun intended), to a little more expense, a conventional cuboid with six sides including a mesh floor is likely to give your rabbit the most exercise without the risk of escape. Gnawing and burrowing are habitual behaviour for every rabbit. A floorless run, no matter how well anchored, can be got out of. When you aren’t looking, your Houdini-like furry friend is likely to make a break for it with some superfast burrowing. Equally, an unroofed run, no matter how tall the fence, represents an invitation to Bunny to practise the high jump. No matter how well enclosed, however, you need to check regularly for any gnawed wire. Thumper could easily be working, Prisoner – of – War style, on gradually enlarging a hole that you haven’t even noticed.
There are many comprehensive rabbit care guides out there, such as the RSPCA’s “Care for Your Rabbit” and “Rabbitlopaedia: A Complete Guide to Rabbit Care”, co-written by a vet and published by Ringpress Books. Finally, when it comes to choosing your rabbit hutch or rabbit pen, don’t rush into the decision, and spend your money on space, space, space.
Foxing the Fox Part Seven: Are my House Rabbits Safe From the Fox?
“I don’t have these problems, my buns live inside!” Even house rabbits are not totally safe from urban foxes. As foxes become increasingly used to people, cars, and city living they are becoming increasingly fearless. Increasingly we hear stories of house rabbits being taken an they are by no means totally safe.
More often than not house rabbits have access to the garden, out onto lawns and patios, even if you are in the house watching or busy in the garden some foxes are bold enough to take pet rabbits. Pet rabbits are of course most at risk after dark and you should never let your house rabbits outside at night.
You must also make sure your house is fox proof. Make sure all ground floor doors and windows are closed, foxes can squeeze through a 10cm (4”) gap. Also think about any cat flaps you might have. Consider investing in one that is activated by microchip and will not let the wrong animal in.
If you use some or all of the deterrents we have looked you will be able to keep your rabbits safe and secure from even the most persistent fox.
Foxing the Fox Part Six: Electric Fences to Keep the Fox Out.
Perhaps the ultimate deterrent for those with a sever fox problem is to invest in an electric fence. There are a number of different types and options and within a large garden this can be the best answer to a fox problem
Single Wire or Bungee Style.
This is usually a single or double run of wire wrapped around the rabbit hutch or run at fox level, with a ‘tripwire’ over the roof of the hutch or run. It should be placed outside the hutch or run to avoid it being nibbled when it is switched off. You will of course need to switch this off when your rabbits are within reach of it. If a fox is nosing around it will get a nasty buzz and soon learn to stay away. Most single wire fences run from small batteries. It is advisable to invest in a good electrical tester so you can check that the fence output is good, it should not be allowed to fall below 2500 volts. Before replacing batteries check the earth rod and look for vegetation touching the wire.
Mesh Electric Fences
This type of fencing is generally used for poultry and must be kept on at all times. If you turn it off pet rabbits would quickly nibble at it and dig underneath it. This type of fencing is not suitable for small gardens with children or slow moving pets like tortoise who can’t move away fast. It is however great for large gardens and can be used to fence of large areas for your rabbits to play in. This type of fencing is usually sold in kits of 25-50 meters of fencing plus all the bits. You would also need a large car or tractor battery (or a mains kit so you don’t need to keep charging the battery). This type of fencing, though relatively expensive is no doubt effective if used in the recommended way.
Foxing the Fox Part Five: Using Prickle Strips to Fox Proof Your Garden.
Prickle strips are strips of plastic spikes that can attached to the top of fences, rabbit hutches, walls or rabbit runs to make them unpleasant for a fox to Jump onto. They are relatively expensive so may not be cost effective for longer stretches they may not be an option. They are ideal for gaps in hedges or gate tops or if you have a smaller fence around your hutch.
It is possible to protect your garden and your pet rabbits by planting thick hedges of thorny pyracanthus bushes, rambling roses or hawthorn. The effectiveness of this technique is questionable as you may well end up providing ideal cover for the foxes, an established thorny hedge that is very thick would however act as a deterrent and this may be a factor when you think about where to put your rabbit hutch.
There are some newer devices on the market that are a cross between a sprinkler and a motion detector that will spray the foxes with water as they approach. This is sure to be a hit with all action film fans and several used in combination would no doubt give foxes and everyone else something to think about.
They do however need a hose permanently attached and could quickly become a nuisance when mowing the lawn or using the garden and may end up at the back of the shed with all the other toys!
Foxing the Fox Part Three: Sonic Fox Deterrents to protect your Pets
Following on from the highly efficient dog Dazers used by council workers, postmen and cyclists there are now a number of high pitched sound devices on the market to deter foxes. The battery operated stationary device can be placed anywhere in the garden and gives out a high pitched sound irritable to foxes.
The best of these devices have motion detectors similar to security lights and will be triggered by motion. Correctly placed these will protect your rabbit in its hutch or run. The fox will very quickly learn that they trigger the device and will avoid the area, over time the garden will become a no go area but be sure to keep the batteries good as if a new fox or cub comes into the area you will still need the device.
These sonic devices are finely tuned and will not upset humans or pet rabbits. This type of deterrent may not be an option if you have pet dogs or a puppy, unless of course you want to keep them away for your bunnies also!
Beware the Deaf Fox!!