The Importance of Rabbit Hutch Security

Door fastenings are a concern when purchasing or constructing a rabbit hutch. Indeed, with all domestic animals, safety begins with successful containment.  Rabbits go missing regularly from gardens. More often than not, the culprit is an urban fox, but cats, dogs and birds of prey are also guilty. The rabbit may well discover itself that it has a loose, rusted or otherwise easily undo-able clasp on its hutch and thus get out all by himself. Overhaul hutch security the moment it becomes necessary to do so. Better still, add a hasp and padlock. Sadly, there are pet thieves about, and while they are unlikely to make off with an entire hutch, it is a matter of a few seconds’ work to swipe the unprotected occupant.

Any run or exercise pen that you construct needs to be roofed. Rabbits can jump high, and predators can leap or scramble in. Then again, it is delightful to watch as Bunny wanders freely around your garden, but even supervised, a rabbit whose keeper takes their eye off the pet for a moment will escape through the tiniest of gaps. Making a garden fully escape-proof is hard to do and takes diligence. Wire mesh used in external fencing has to be lodged under the soil surface. Make sure, too, that your rabbit cannot access poisonous plants. There is a long list, and it includes many garden favourites. Here are just a few: poinsettias, cyclamen, garlic, foxglove, mistletoe, peony, rhododendron, periwinkle, boxwood, the china berry tree and even buttercups.

Quite apart from the risk of being poisoned, outdoor rabbits should be given a regular health-check. You can learn how precisely to carry this out yourself if you order the “Bunny MOT” leaflet from the Rabbit Welfare Association. Most owners know about the two most distressing diseases to affect rabbits – myxomatosis and VHD.  These are both fatal, so there is no solution other than to maintain a regular vaccination programme. There is further unpleasant information that is nevertheless worth knowing about. Fly strike, a parasite attack which usually occurs in summer, takes place when a fly lays its eggs on your pet and the maggots, when they hatch, burrow into Bunny’s flesh. Also known as ‘myiasis’, it has been known to ‘strike’ even rabbits kept permanently indoors. Dirt, rotting food, faeces, decaying teeth and open wounds are can attract a fly which then chooses its spot for egg-laying. Both the blow-fly and the bot fly carry out this gruesome practice and it is therefore really worthwhile to check your rabbit regularly all over for fly eggs and for the tiny holes made by bot fly larvae. Lumps under the skin are another sign. You can remove flies’ eggs, but don’t leave it to chance. Take your rabbit to a vet, promptly. For prevention, the importance of keeping both your pet and his rabbit hutch clean cannot be overstated.

Once the three big issues for your pet of shelter, physical safety and disease prevention have been catered for, it is time for the most important aspect of rabbit ownership: building an ever-evolving relationship with your bunny – whether it lives indoors or out. Some websites that might be of interest include: www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk and www.rabbitwelfarefund.co.uk .

“The Live in Rabbit” Should I Keep my Rabbit Inside?

Increasingly, the approach being taken towards pet rabbit ownership is to treat them very similarly to guinea pigs and hamsters, i.e. as house pets. That said, no matter how greatly loved, not everyone wants the presence of their rabbit and its odours and little noises 24/7. One solution that suits everybody concerned is to give the rabbit time both in its outdoor (or outbuilding) hutch and time indoors. If this is what you opt for, you will need to make a suitable choice from the range of rabbit cages available. These of course can be obtained from a large number of online stores, including therabbithutchshop.co.uk, as well as high street retailers. These cages, constructed from plastic and metal, are for indoor use only.

In rabbit cages, a solid floor is preferable. Chafing of the feet can result from the mesh of a wire floor. Gauging your rabbit’s size is important when judging whether the cage door is large enough. Sometimes a side door is the better option as it is easier for large rabbits to get in and out.

While, on the one hand, a large rabbit living in an outdoor hutch should really have a home no smaller than five feet x two feet, the indoor cage may be a little smaller, since Bunny will not be spending a great deal of his time in it. The idea is to give your rabbit as many opportunities to run around and enjoy human companionship as possible by allowing him to live indoors. Obviously a cage in which he can be contained is necessary, especially when being left alone. If yours is an outdoor rabbit do nevertheless consider letting Bunny spend his nights in your house (unless the alternative is a good, ventilated yet snug alternative, such as an outhouse, conservatory, garage or utility room).

Top on every rabbit-centred website’s list of warnings is not to let the rabbit be exposed to possible predator attack. This where rabbit hutches, or for that matter rabbit cages, cannot be expected to do the job. Predators, by their very presence, are a threat to a rabbit’s life. Awareness of a fox, even a swooping owl, is enough to stop a rabbit’s heart. The inability to run away is unimaginably stress-inducing. Hence, unless you have very good reason to believe that no such predators ever enter your neighbourhood, the kind way to keep rabbits is inside a secure building, if not on your house itself.

Inside the cage or hutch, you really ought to give the rabbit a place to hide. A rabbit’s need to be screened off in a secure, enclosed space can be traced to life in the burrow. To address this natural urge, give your rabbit a nest or hide. It can take one of a variety of forms; one idea is a basket made from untreated wicker or cane; alternatively you might use a cat litter tray as a nest, or a cardboard box. If using the latter, a good idea is to cut an entrance hole. You can of course buy wooden versions of these small rabbit homes or hides. For snuggling inside his hide, hay is the obvious material for your rabbit, but likely to get eaten. You could choose a fabric such as artificial fleece or purchase a sisal mat. To be avoided are the shavings of evergreen due to the harmful oils which they emit.

In the extensive catalogue of rabbit accoutrements are also transporters especially designed for rabbits, roofed outdoor enclosures of various shapes, the more traditional apex run, playpens and rabbit beds. For rabbit devotees, the shopping possibilities are almost endless!

Foxing the Fox Part One: Rabbit Hutches, Runs and other Basic Equipment.

Foxes are Bad News for Pet Rabbits! In part one of our mini Series “Foxing the Fox” we look at the basic necessities to keep outdoor rabbits Safe.

Firstly you need a good strong rabbit hutch with a firmly attached roof.  Large preferably locking door bolts if not provided should be fitted. It is possible now to buy very cheap combination padlocks or suitcase locks that can be used to make sure rabbit hutch doors are locked and secure. Any Modern rabbit hutch should have strong wire mesh, this should be a weld-mesh minimum 19 Guage. Cheaper chicken wire was designed to keep chickens in, not the fox out. Ensure that the the back and sides of the hutch are sturdy and try to place the hutch close to the house if you can.  If you have a persistent fox problem you might also consider shutters for the mesh doors or a cover for the hutch so that the fox can’t see the rabbits. If you do this however you must ensure there is enough ventilation of the hutch and never forget and leave the shutters on all day. In most cases this would not be necessary.

Obviously Pet rabbits should not spend all day in their rabbit hutch, so you can either dedicate your life to watching then on the lawn or invest in a large sturdy fox proof rabbit run. To Be worthwhile the run should be large enough for the rabbit to run and excercise. A good strong wire is essential and also lots of hiding places, tunnels and bolt holes so that your buns feel safe. If the run is a permanent addition to your garden consider making it large enough to walk into. Also consider placing slabs around the outside edge so that the fox can’t dig his way in.

In short large sturdy hutches and Runs with Good Door bolts and strong wire are now the minimum for keeping your pets safe. In part two we will start to look at ways of keeping foxes out of your garden altogether.

Have Rabbit Must Travel! How can I Help My Rabbit When We Move?

We are often asked at the rabbit hutch shop, “how can i look after my rabbit whilst travelling in the car”, so I thought I would write a few tips for anyone who has to take a rabbit on a long journey.

Some rabbits do travel well, others do not. The only way to find out is to try some short test journeys and see how your rabbit behaves at the end of it.  In many cases your rabbit will not be happy at all. Some people tell us that their rabbits travel fine and seem to be very happy when they are on the move. In most cases though, unless your bunny has been on the move from an early age, they will not take to it straight away.

There are a number of things that you can do to make your pets comfortable whilst travelling. Firstly you should get a suitable Rabbit Carrier well in advance. We come across two schools of thought with carriers. Some people go for the largest possible carrier they can, or use a small indoor cage or dog crate. Others prefer to go for a small cosy carrier that is more like your rabbit’s bed or nesting area. For rabbits that have not travelled before or that are nervous we would recommend going for something smaller that will give your rabbit added security.

Get your pet rabbit used to the carrier a couple of days or a week before you travel. Encourage them into it with treats, food and toys.  Leave the carrier open and let you rabbit sleep in it if you can. Shut your rabbit in the carrier for short periods of time without moving the carrier.

Once you are ready to travel start with short “test” journeys.  Make sure when you put the carrier in the car it is positioned so that it will not be jolted if you have to break hard. Put it behind one of the front seats or use the seat belt to secure it.

On long journeys make sure your rabbit has access to water and food. If you are travelling in warm weather consider draping a damp towl over the carrier and make sure you position the carrier out of direct sunlight.

Finally the most important thing is that you yourself are calm and happy. All pets feed from the emotions of those around them. If you are uptight about the move and anxious about your pet they simply will not settle.  If you are very concerned about travelling with your pet consider asking someone else to take your pet on short journeys so you and your pet can get used to the idea.

P.S “Hoppy Holidays”, and remember if you are happy your pets will be happy as well.

Why Wont My Rabbits Use all of Their Hutch and Run?

We are often asked this question. Many people do the right thing and buy a Large Rabbit Hutch and Run, only to find that there rabbit does not use most of it, particularly the run section.

Rabbits are prey species and despite domestication still maintain many of their wild behaviours, one of which is their response to potential danger.  For all prey species such as rabbits it is essential that they have somewhere to flee to if they feel threatened. In the wild this would be deep undergrowth, a burrow, under a log, in a hedgerow or other hiding place. Rabbits are naturally cautious of wide open spaces that lack hiding places to hide in if they feel threatened.

Many rabbit owners who buy large exercise runs or rabbit hutches with large runs attached are often disappointed by their pet’s lack of enthusiasm. Try to look at the space from the rabbits point of view. Make sure you have plenty of hiding places, tunnels, pipes, or rabbit houses spread out over the entire space so your rabbit does not feel threatened. Rabbits need places to hide and particularly in new environments can remain cautious for quite some time.

Providing your pet rabbit with the larges exercise and living space as possible is the right thing to do and with a little thought you can ensure that your pet gets maximum use out the the space and lives  a happy healthy life.

Pet Rabbits – The Five Important things Part Five

Healthy Happy Rabbits Part Five, “Health and Welfare”

Make sure your rabbit is protected from pain, suffering, injury and disease

Facts

• Rabbits feel pain in the same way as other mammals, including people.
• Rabbits are not good at showing outward signs of pain so may be suffering a great deal before anything is noticed. A change in the way a rabbit normally behaves can be an early sign it is ill or in pain. If a rabbit is not eating or is more quiet than usual it is highly likely to be ill or in pain. Read more about rabbits’ behaviour.
• Rabbits are vulnerable to many infectious diseases and other illnesses, especially dental disease. They can catch deadly infectious diseases from wild rabbits.
• Pet Rabbits that are stressed are much more likely to become ill.
• Un-neutered female rabbits are at a high risk of developing cancer of the womb, and un-neutered rabbits are more likely to fight if kept together.
• Some breeds of rabbit have been selected for exaggerated physical features which can cause them to suffer and reduce their quality of life.
• Certain breeds are particularly prone to inherited disorders and diseases.
• A rabbit which can be easily identified (e.g. via a microchip) is more likely to be reunited with its owner if lost and to receive prompt veterinary care if injured.

Things you should do

• Get your rabbit neutered, unless it is intended for breeding and provisions have been made to care for both parents and offspring. Before allowing rabbits to breed, seek the advice of your vet to ensure they are suitable for breeding in terms of their health and personalities.
• Before deciding to buy a rabbit, make sure you find out what health and behaviour problems it has, or may be prone to, how it has been bred and how it has been cared for. Always check with a vet if you are unsure about anything.
• Feeding your rabbit a correct diet of mainly hay and/or grass will help prevent a lot of common diseases such as dental and gut disease. Check that your rabbit is eating every day and that it is passing plenty of dry droppings. If your rabbit’s eating or drinking habits change or the number of droppings gets less or stops, talk to your vet straight away as it could be seriously ill.
• Check your rabbit for signs of illness or injury every day, and make sure this is done by someone else if you are away.  In warm weather you should check the fur and skin around your rabbit’s rear end and tail area twice a day, as urine staining or droppings that are stuck will attract flies, which can lay eggs and cause ‘flystrike’, which is often fatal. Read more about identifying flystrike and how to prevent flystrike in pets.
• Front teeth and nails should be checked at least once a week as these can grow quickly. Only a vet should correct overgrown or misaligned teeth.
• Take your rabbit for a routine health check at your vets at least once each year.
• Get your rabbit vaccinated regularly against myxomatosis and Viral Haemmorhagic Disease (VHD), as advised by your vet.
• Prevent your rabbit having contact with wild rabbits or areas where wild rabbits have been.
• Give your rabbit treatment for external and internal parasites (e.g. fleas and worms) as necessary, as advised by your vet.
• Only use medicines that have been specifically recommended for your rabbit by a vet. Some medicines used for other animals can be very dangerous to rabbits.
• Ensure your rabbit’s coat is kept in good condition by grooming it regularly. If you are unsure how to groom it properly seek advice from a pet care specialist.
• Make sure your rabbit can be identified, ideally via a microchip (ask your vet for advice), so it can be treated quickly if injured or returned to you if lost.
• Consider taking out pet insurance to ensure your rabbit is covered if it needs veterinary treatment

Pet Rabbits – The Five Important things Part Three.

Healthy Happy Rabbits Part Three, “Behaviour”

Make sure your rabbit is able to behave normally

Facts

• Rabbits are highly social, playful and inquisitive animals and need to interact and play with other friendly rabbits. Many can enjoy interacting with people.
• Rabbits are active animals and need regular opportunities to exercise.
• Rabbits are most active in the morning and late afternoon. This is when they like to graze, forage for food and be sociable.
• Scent is an important means of communication for a rabbit.
• A rabbit must be able to avoid things that scare it. Rabbits are a prey species and must be able to hide in a secure place, away from the sight and smell of predators (e.g. foxes, cats, dogs, ferrets and birds of prey).
• The way a rabbit behaves will depend on its age, personality and past experiences.
• If your rabbit changes its behaviour, it could be distressed, bored, ill or injured.
• Rabbits that are frightened or in pain may change their behaviour or develop unwanted habits e.g. aggression or hiding.
• Signs that your rabbit may be suffering from stress or fear can include hiding, chewing cage bars, over-grooming, altered feeding or toileting habits, over-drinking or playing with the water bottle, sitting hunched, reluctance to move, and repeated circling of its enclosure.

Things you should do

• Make sure your rabbit can access all the things that it needs (space, food, water,safe hiding places, companion rabbit(s), toilet area(s) and toys) at all times.
• Provide your rabbit with safe toys to play with and chew, and regular opportunities to play with people or other friendly rabbits.
• Make sure your rabbit has constant access to safe hiding places where it can escape if it feels afraid.
• Make sure your rabbit has opportunities to exercise every day to stay fit and healthy in a large enclosure or Rabbit Run.
• Provide your rabbit with suitable materials that allow digging behaviour and areas to mark its territory with chin secretions, urine and droppings.
• Be observant. If your rabbit’s behaviour changes or it shows regular signs of stress or fear, seek advice from a vet or a clinical animal behaviourist.
• Never shout at or punish your rabbit, it is very unlikely to understand and can become more nervous or scared. If your rabbit’s behaviour becomes an ongoing problem, seek expert advice.

Pet Rabbits – The Five Important things Part Two.

Healthy Happy Rabbits Part Two, “Diet”

Make sure your rabbit has a healthy Diet!

Facts

• Without water to drink a rabbit can become seriously ill.
• Rabbits are grazers and naturally eat only grass and other plants.
• The rabbit’s digestive system must have grass and/or hay in order to function properly.
• Some plants are poisonous to rabbits.
• Rabbits do not naturally eat cereals, root vegetables or fruit.
• Rabbits naturally eat for long periods of time, mainly at dawn and dusk.
• How much a rabbit needs to eat depends on its age, lifestyle and state of health.
• If a rabbit eats more food than it needs it will become overweight and may suffer.
• Rabbits’ teeth grow continuously throughout their life and need to be worn down and kept at the correct length and shape by eating grass, hay and leafy green plants. Failure to eat the right diet can result in serious dental disease.
• Rabbits produce two types of droppings – hard dry pellets, and softer moist pellets that it eats directly from its bottom and which are an essential part of its diet.

Things you should do

• Provide fresh clean drinking water at all times. Check the water supply twice a day. Make sure water doesn’t freeze if your rabbit is outdoors in winter.
• Good quality hay and/or grass should make up the majority of your rabbit’s diet and should be available at all times.
• You can feed a small amount of commercial rabbit pellets or cereal mix, but hay and/or grass are much more important. If pellets or mix are provided, follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Don’t keep topping the bowl up as this may result in it not eating enough hay and/or grass.
• Growing, pregnant, nursing or underweight rabbits may need a larger portion of pellets or mix. Your vet or a rabbit nutritionist will be able to advise you about how to provide the best diet for your rabbit.
• Find out which plants are safe to feed your rabbit. Offer safe, washed leafy greens or weeds every day.
• Do not feed lawnmower clippings as these can upset your rabbit’s digestive system and make it ill.
• Only give root vegetables like carrots, or fruit, in small amounts as a treat. Don’t feed any other treats as these may harm your rabbit.
• Adjust how much you feed your rabbit to make sure it does not become underweight or overweight.
• Don’t make any sudden changes to your rabbit’s diet as this could upset its digestive system and make it very ill.
• Monitor the amount your rabbit eats and drinks. If your rabbit’s eating or drinking habits change, the number of droppings gets less or stops, or there are soft droppings sticking to its back end, talk to your vet straight away as it could be seriously ill.