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Finding Flopsy a Home: Where should my Pet Rabbit live?
If you are embarking upon rabbit ownership – becoming a member of the bunny brigade – your biggest outlay will be on the choice of what rabbit hutch to plump for. There are lots of factors to consider when you are making that selection, or, for that matter, building the hutch yourself.
Your rabbit may be a newly-purchased youngster and you might have been tempted to invest in a starter rabbit hutch. This may look cute and dinky, but is not generally a wise economy. Top priority in most experts’ opinion, is space. Just like you, that bunny needs elbow room, or ear room (okay, only kidding). The growing pet – unless it’s a dwarf variety – in one of the smaller “starter-homes” could soon be suffering from that “I’m-a-rabbit-get-me-out-of-here” sensation, not to be wished on any domestic animal.
A serious point is that as rabbits travel by jumping, head room really is vital. On a similar note, rabbits when they sit up on those long powerful back legs grow pretty tall. Think of the Watership Down bunnies when they stretched up to check for approaching predators. Even if you are being careful to select an adult-sized hutch, remember that your rabbit while it is sitting normally is considerably more compact than he will be when stretched out resting or sleeping. Measure your lounging long-eared friend when you get the chance, then quadruple that measurement. That way you will have the ideal length for a really comfortable hutch.
So, agreed, the biggest rabbit hutch you can stretch to (Oops) is the first concern. This by no means rules out two-storey structures, provided one storey at least has good head height. In fact, the advantage of these hutches is that they help to address Priority Number Two: ensuring Thumper has separate sleeping quarters. It should be mentioned, that up until now we have been considering the accommodation needs of the single rabbit with its own ‘pad’. If you are accommodating more than one rabbit in a hutch, it will be essential to allocate a separate sleeping area for each animal. Either way, a designated sleeping area, screened from prying eyes by not having wire mesh over the front, with, of course the benefit of darkness, is a must. In addition, the litter area needs to be a reasonable size, ideally located in a far corner. Naturally, this needs regular mucking out by Bunny’s owner, not least because rabbits are very clean creatures who hate to live among their own droppings.
The next dilemma surrounds whether to keep your rabbit indoors or out. While it may seem far more natural to place the hutch out of doors, the realities of life for pet rabbits tend to dictate that you think again. The rabbit owner soon learns that Enemy Number One is Mr. Fox. There is a great deal to be said for finding a “half-way house”! In other words, you should consider housing your pet in a conservatory, utility room or lean-to, in other words a predator-proof space. It is not widely known that death from sheer fright can be brought on just by being in the presence of a fox. If the rabbit hutch really must be positioned outdoors, place it as close to the house as possible, even if this means cluttering the patio somewhat or re-positioning plant pots and other garden features. Predators are wary of coming too close to human habitation.
With these vital factors dealt with, you can now at last have fun planning minor features such as interior accessories or the addition of a name plate.
Foxing the Fox Part Seven: Are my House Rabbits Safe From the Fox?
“I don’t have these problems, my buns live inside!” Even house rabbits are not totally safe from urban foxes. As foxes become increasingly used to people, cars, and city living they are becoming increasingly fearless. Increasingly we hear stories of house rabbits being taken an they are by no means totally safe.
More often than not house rabbits have access to the garden, out onto lawns and patios, even if you are in the house watching or busy in the garden some foxes are bold enough to take pet rabbits. Pet rabbits are of course most at risk after dark and you should never let your house rabbits outside at night.
You must also make sure your house is fox proof. Make sure all ground floor doors and windows are closed, foxes can squeeze through a 10cm (4”) gap. Also think about any cat flaps you might have. Consider investing in one that is activated by microchip and will not let the wrong animal in.
If you use some or all of the deterrents we have looked you will be able to keep your rabbits safe and secure from even the most persistent fox.
Foxing the Fox Part Six: Electric Fences to Keep the Fox Out.
Perhaps the ultimate deterrent for those with a sever fox problem is to invest in an electric fence. There are a number of different types and options and within a large garden this can be the best answer to a fox problem
Single Wire or Bungee Style.
This is usually a single or double run of wire wrapped around the rabbit hutch or run at fox level, with a ‘tripwire’ over the roof of the hutch or run. It should be placed outside the hutch or run to avoid it being nibbled when it is switched off. You will of course need to switch this off when your rabbits are within reach of it. If a fox is nosing around it will get a nasty buzz and soon learn to stay away. Most single wire fences run from small batteries. It is advisable to invest in a good electrical tester so you can check that the fence output is good, it should not be allowed to fall below 2500 volts. Before replacing batteries check the earth rod and look for vegetation touching the wire.
Mesh Electric Fences
This type of fencing is generally used for poultry and must be kept on at all times. If you turn it off pet rabbits would quickly nibble at it and dig underneath it. This type of fencing is not suitable for small gardens with children or slow moving pets like tortoise who can’t move away fast. It is however great for large gardens and can be used to fence of large areas for your rabbits to play in. This type of fencing is usually sold in kits of 25-50 meters of fencing plus all the bits. You would also need a large car or tractor battery (or a mains kit so you don’t need to keep charging the battery). This type of fencing, though relatively expensive is no doubt effective if used in the recommended way.
Foxing the Fox Part Five: Using Prickle Strips to Fox Proof Your Garden.
Prickle strips are strips of plastic spikes that can attached to the top of fences, rabbit hutches, walls or rabbit runs to make them unpleasant for a fox to Jump onto. They are relatively expensive so may not be cost effective for longer stretches they may not be an option. They are ideal for gaps in hedges or gate tops or if you have a smaller fence around your hutch.
It is possible to protect your garden and your pet rabbits by planting thick hedges of thorny pyracanthus bushes, rambling roses or hawthorn. The effectiveness of this technique is questionable as you may well end up providing ideal cover for the foxes, an established thorny hedge that is very thick would however act as a deterrent and this may be a factor when you think about where to put your rabbit hutch.
There are some newer devices on the market that are a cross between a sprinkler and a motion detector that will spray the foxes with water as they approach. This is sure to be a hit with all action film fans and several used in combination would no doubt give foxes and everyone else something to think about.
They do however need a hose permanently attached and could quickly become a nuisance when mowing the lawn or using the garden and may end up at the back of the shed with all the other toys!
Foxing the Fox Part Four: Red Eye Lights
Bright Eye flashing lights are just like small flashing red bike lights, they come on at dusk and stay on till dawn. They are inexpensive and easy to put up on a garden fence or rabbit hutch and they do not need any batteries. The Manufactures claim that they imitate a predator and are very effective. I have not used them and wonder just how effective they would be in an urban area. I also question how popular they would be with the neighbours. This deterrent would also only be effective when it is dark.
If anyone has used these please let us know how good they are! It is important to remember that in this miniseries we are looking at all options available and it may be that you need to use a range of deterrents to keep your pet rabbits safe.
Foxing the Fox Part Three: Sonic Fox Deterrents to protect your Pets
Following on from the highly efficient dog Dazers used by council workers, postmen and cyclists there are now a number of high pitched sound devices on the market to deter foxes. The battery operated stationary device can be placed anywhere in the garden and gives out a high pitched sound irritable to foxes.
The best of these devices have motion detectors similar to security lights and will be triggered by motion. Correctly placed these will protect your rabbit in its hutch or run. The fox will very quickly learn that they trigger the device and will avoid the area, over time the garden will become a no go area but be sure to keep the batteries good as if a new fox or cub comes into the area you will still need the device.
These sonic devices are finely tuned and will not upset humans or pet rabbits. This type of deterrent may not be an option if you have pet dogs or a puppy, unless of course you want to keep them away for your bunnies also!
Beware the Deaf Fox!!
Foxing the Fox Part Two: Scent Marking to Keep Foxes out of Your Garden
Now that we have taken care of the Basic Equipment so that the fox can’t get at your rabbits we now need to look at ways we can keep them away from your rabbits. Even if your pet is safe in its Rabbit Hutch if fox is close by it will still cause problems for your rabbit. Luckily there are a number of ways you can keep foxes either out of your garden or away from your pets.
One way to protect your pet rabbit is to use the foxes own natural behaviour. In the wild foxes scent mark their territory with urine. Foxes will not generally cross into another foxes territory and will keep to their own patch. There are now a number of Scent Markers that you can buy to mark out the boundary of your garden with a fox like scent. These have proven effective if used regularly and after heavy rain.
Some people say that humane urine will do the trick, but be warned this can lead to considerable neighbourhood scandal!! If there is evidence of foxes in your garden you may want to try scent marking before you get your pet rabbit so that your territory is marked out before you add any temptation.
In part 3 we will look at sonic fox deterents.
Foxing the Fox: How To Keep Your Pet Rabbit Safe!
Foxes are on the increase and especially in suburban areas. Figures suggest that although rural population’s average about one fox per square kilometre urban areas can support up to 30 adult foxes per square kilometre.
For Rabbit owners the fox is bad news. Foxes regard rabbits as a tasty snack regardless of whether there is other food available. Most at risk are rabbits running fee in the early morning or late evening, or those trapped in inadequate hutches at the bottom of the garden. Peak times of year for foxes to kill pet rabbits is early in spring when the vixen needs food for her cubs and in autumn/winter when food can be in short supply, but rabbits can be at risk at any time of year.
So how do you protect your pet rabbits from being eaten or terrified to death? Thankfully there are many things that you can do, from a simple bolt to an electric fence. There are so many things that you can do that we have split it down into a seven part series of mini articles.
- Foxing the Fox Part One: Rabbit Hutches, Runs and other Basic Equipment.
- Foxing the Fox Part Two: Scent Marking to Keep Foxes out of Your Garden
- Foxing the Fox Part Three: Sonic Fox Deterrents to protect your Pets
- Foxing the Fox Part Four: Red Eye Lights
- Foxing the Fox Part Five: Using Prickle Strips to Fox Proof Your Garden.
- Foxing the Fox Part Six: Electric Fences to Keep the Fox Out.
- Foxing the Fox Part Seven: Are my House Rabbits Safe From the Fox?
Each mini article is packed full of tips, tricks and ways to keep your pet rabbits safe.
My Rabbit Has Stopped Eating, What Can I Do?
Rabbits will stop eating for a number of different reasons and it is more common than most people realise. Pain, Surgery, Stress, and or a change in diet are all potential triggers that can cause a rabbit to stop eating. If your rabbit stops eating you need to address it as quickly as possible due to the rabbits gastrointestinal system it is important that he eats regularly and continues to ingest fibre.
Here are our tips for getting your rabbit to eat properly again.
- Always ensure that following surgery or during illness you rabbit has sufficient painkillers and make sure you use them. A rabbit that is in pain will not eat!
- Rabbits are naturally active at dawn and dusk. Try to mimic these conditions for your rabbit. With house rabbits dim the lights, ensure it is quiet and keep the room at the correct temperature (21-23 degrees). Make sure there are no predators within sight or smell (including your pet dog or cat) and ensure that your rabbit is comfortable, clean and dry. Rabbits who feel stressed, dirty or threatened will not eat.
- Anorexic rabbits generally crave Fiber. Offer good quality sweet smelling hay with greens, freshly picked grass, dandelion leaves or your bunnie’s favourite Rabbit food. Getting your rabbit to start eating is the most important thing at this stage.
- Ensure the food is within easy reach of your rabbit.
- Contrary to popular belief rabbits, like most prey animals, do not like being picked up and cuddled if they are unwell. Gentle stroking and talking to your rabbits is more effective and will allow them to feel safe and secure and start to eat.
- Some rabbits will take the elusive first bite if you waft food under their nose. Tickle their nose with a strand of hay or grass to see if you can encourage them to start to nibble, initially you might need to slowly introduce on strand after another to kick start your rabbits appetite
- Don’t overload your rabbits bowl and avoid outfacing them. Small amounts give n often or spread out in several feed bowls is often more effective than on large bowl full given once per day.
- If you rabbit has a companion and it is possible keep them together, the sight of a friend eating and the comfort a companion brings will often be enough to get your bunny eating again.
Lastly Persevere! It can take several days to ge an anorexic rabbit to begin eating again. As long as they are comfortable and not deteriorating then it is worth persisting.
If you Feel that your rabbit has stopped eating you must consult your veterinary surgeon so they can diagnose the problem. In many cases this is the first sign of illness or a deeper problem.
Have Rabbit Must Travel! How can I Help My Rabbit When We Move?
We are often asked at the rabbit hutch shop, “how can i look after my rabbit whilst travelling in the car”, so I thought I would write a few tips for anyone who has to take a rabbit on a long journey.
Some rabbits do travel well, others do not. The only way to find out is to try some short test journeys and see how your rabbit behaves at the end of it. In many cases your rabbit will not be happy at all. Some people tell us that their rabbits travel fine and seem to be very happy when they are on the move. In most cases though, unless your bunny has been on the move from an early age, they will not take to it straight away.
There are a number of things that you can do to make your pets comfortable whilst travelling. Firstly you should get a suitable Rabbit Carrier well in advance. We come across two schools of thought with carriers. Some people go for the largest possible carrier they can, or use a small indoor cage or dog crate. Others prefer to go for a small cosy carrier that is more like your rabbit’s bed or nesting area. For rabbits that have not travelled before or that are nervous we would recommend going for something smaller that will give your rabbit added security.
Get your pet rabbit used to the carrier a couple of days or a week before you travel. Encourage them into it with treats, food and toys. Leave the carrier open and let you rabbit sleep in it if you can. Shut your rabbit in the carrier for short periods of time without moving the carrier.
Once you are ready to travel start with short “test” journeys. Make sure when you put the carrier in the car it is positioned so that it will not be jolted if you have to break hard. Put it behind one of the front seats or use the seat belt to secure it.
On long journeys make sure your rabbit has access to water and food. If you are travelling in warm weather consider draping a damp towl over the carrier and make sure you position the carrier out of direct sunlight.
Finally the most important thing is that you yourself are calm and happy. All pets feed from the emotions of those around them. If you are uptight about the move and anxious about your pet they simply will not settle. If you are very concerned about travelling with your pet consider asking someone else to take your pet on short journeys so you and your pet can get used to the idea.
P.S “Hoppy Holidays”, and remember if you are happy your pets will be happy as well.
