Top 7 Reasons to Use a Hutch Snuggle Insulated Rabbit Hutch Cover
The Hutch Snuggle Rabbit hutch Cover From Scratch and Newton is truly a revolutionary product. Made quite literaly from space age materials, NASA developed the materials for use in their space shuttle and now you can use them to keep your pet rabbits and guinea pigs healthy and happy.
The Hutch Snuggle was designed to be used with Scratch and Newtons Waterproof Hutch Hugger, the Green Hutch Hugger will fit over the top of the insulated cover. You can use the hutch snuggle on its own but we do recomend that use both covers in winter.
But Why Should i Buy This Cover?
- These insulated covers are designed to keep your rabbit hutch warm during the winter
- This cover will also keep your rabbit hutch cool in the summer and help to reduce the chances of heatstroke.
- The cover will protect your rabbit hutch from the elements and keep it in top condition longer
- The built in (removable) fly screen helps to combat fly strike in the summer months. Flystrike is still one of the main causes of death in pet rabbits
- When used with a Waterproof Hutch Hugger your rabbits will always have a place to go that is warm (or cool) and totally dry
- The cover and the micro climate it creates is ideal for nursing or poorly pets
- This cover will create the ideal Climate for raising baby rabbits.
Heatstroke the Number One Killer for Pet Rabbits in Summer
Warning Rabbits and Hot sunny Weather do not mix! You must keep an eye on your pets during the summer months. Heat stroke is the number one killer of pet rabbits at this time of year. Each rabbit is different so you must keep an eye on each of them for signs of overheating.
Heres what you need to look for
- laboured breathing
- flaring of the nostrils
- general signs of distress
- salavating
- confusion
- inablility to move
- in sever cases convulsions
Heres what to do
- prevent it happening, see our tips below
- if you rabbits body reaches 104 deg fahrenheit seek emergancy treatment straight away
- If it does happen DO NOT immerse your rabbit in cold water, the shock will cause more harm then good
- use tepid water or a damp towl to gradually reduce your bunnie temperature.
Top 9 Tips to Keep your Rabbits Safe From Heatstroke
- Make sure your bunny is out of the sun, Use a Rabbit Run Shade or Insulsated Hutch cover to keep things cool.
- set up a circulating fan to breeze past your rabbit through the day, use damp towls over your hutch or cage to keep things cool
- Place a marbel or ceramic tile in buns hutch to lie on.
- Use an Rabbit Ice Pod stright from the freezer to keep your rabbits hutch cool all day
- Place a few ice cubes in your rabbits water bowl to keep this cool, your bun will lie up against it to keep cool
- Mist water over your rabbits ears with a fine spray bottle
- Brush out excessive fur or even consider cropping your bunnies coat short for the summer
- Feed lots of fresh veggies to keep your rabbit hydrated
- Be particulary mindfull of young bunnies and adults over 5 these are most prone to heat stoke.
Pet Rabbits love the summer and with these guidelines you will be able to keep them extra cool
Product Review Competition Winner
Thank you everyone for entering our product review competition. There were some terrific entries and very usefull and informative reviews entered. These are great for everyone, particularly if you are trying to decide what to spend your hard earned cash on.
Some of you even sent us links to your u-tube videos, thank you for that they are great, hear is one for one of our harnesses http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28tIIOtf9mw
Well done to Kim Johnson you are our winner, you reviewed a total of 12 different items for us and your name was picked out of the hat and your voucher is on its way to you. For everyone else who left us a review we set up a Discount Voucher Review enter this code in our checkout before friday 21st of March and we will give you 10% off your order jsut to say thank you.
We got a ton of reviews particluaryl for rabbit hutches, below are some of the reveiws we have for jus two of our rabbit hutches.
Natura Large Rabbit Hutch and Run
| Author: Sarah Thompson “”"I have received the hutch and built it today – I am really pleased with the quality. Great value.”" “ |
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| Author: Bernadette Brady “Thanks very mutch for providing us with a great hutch and now a very safe and happy rabbit” |
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| Author: Simon Oakerbee “I just wanted to say what a great service you provided. We placed the order for the Rabbit hutch and it was with us within two days very easy to build and great quality” |
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| Author: Eden Cooper I recieved the hutch and built it today. It comes flatpack and is very easy to put together. It is very quick delivery. I am 10 and my dad helped me and even I could do it! I think it is great I just have to wait for my rabbit now! Thanks for such a great service. |
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| Author: Mick Timpson A very long time ago I used to breed rabbits and made my own hutches. I have never made one as good as this. It’s so versatile and practical, easy to dismantle for cleaning with superb access to all compartments. Like most rabbits ‘Cocoa’ uses what might be seen as the sleeping area for his toilet and he kips by the caged bit at the top. The plasticised floor makes cleaning simple and hygienic with no chance of urine rot destroying the timber.The only modification I found necessary was to manufacture a bracket to secure the ramp to the back wall so that we can move the hutch around the lawn with no bother. I am very pleased with this product and having owned it for 18 months or so have no complaints whatever. |
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| Author: Janet Adams Good value for money. However to make it draft proof, needed to board the bottom of the hutch. |
Natura Delux 6ft x 3ft x 4ft Rabbit Hutch and Run Combo
| Author: Vanessa Hill This hutch has been great as it actually gives plenty of room for my bunny to run around both outside and inside. The cover is an excellent idea and keeps the bad weather out-we just keep the hutch end covered in Spring so he still can get fresh air downstairs. The bunny obviously loves this hutch as now, when I open the downstairs door he pops out into the garden for a second and then runs back inside! We did add some metal bolts onto the doors for greater security against foxes but apart from that its built well. We are all very pleased with this product. Delivery was as efficient as ever from this company-very good. |
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| Author: lesley doyle my rabbits love this hutch, they never in the top, they always down stairs, as they love the fresh air, and freedom to move |
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| Author: Miss J Richardson Great product and fast delivery. Easy to assemble. Ideal for two bunnies. |
Win £50 Vouncher for Rabbit Hutch Shop!
This could be The Quickest £50.00 You Ever Made. It so simple anyone could do it, 5 Quick and Easy Steps Below. p.s you can enter as many times as you like! You must get your entries in by the 7th May 2010!
Ready to Win £50?? Click here to get started!!
Step 1: Visit our Online Pet Shop!
Step 2: find any product that you have owned, used, borrowed or feel you can accuratly comment on and go to the Review Tab.
Step 3: Choose your overall rating for the product Excellent = 5 Stars - then Click on Rate It!
Step 4 Go back to the Review Tab, Give us your Name and write a short review of the product.
Step 5: Send us an Email at rhs@countrylifeservices.co.uk with link to the product that you reviewed or the product code/sku of the item.
Thats it your done, Ready to get Started?? It could be You! Click Here
Is you Pet Rabbit Fat? 30% of all rabbits in the UK are Obese!
I came across some great articles on the Rabbit awarness week website about rabbits health and in particlular rabbit obesity. I should point out that Burgess excel sponsor the event but that said the statistics can not be denied. Is yoru pet rabbit obese? If so have you consdiered the true cost not only to your pet but also to your wallet?
Shockingly at least 80% of rabbits in the uk are not being fed correctly, and the most common cause of rabbits becoming ill is poor diet. In addition to this an amazing 30% of all pet rabbits are obese leading to a whole raft of medical problems, click here to see the full article, there is a tonne of great feeding tips for you pet rabbit and also very practical things you can do to help improve you rabbits life, from providing the correct balanced diet to ensureing you rabbit always has plenty of room to excercise and play with plenty of pet rabbit toys and treats.
How do you keep you bunnies healthy and active? If you have any great tips we would love to hear about them.
The Importance of Rabbit Hutch Security
Door fastenings are a concern when purchasing or constructing a rabbit hutch. Indeed, with all domestic animals, safety begins with successful containment. Rabbits go missing regularly from gardens. More often than not, the culprit is an urban fox, but cats, dogs and birds of prey are also guilty. The rabbit may well discover itself that it has a loose, rusted or otherwise easily undo-able clasp on its hutch and thus get out all by himself. Overhaul hutch security the moment it becomes necessary to do so. Better still, add a hasp and padlock. Sadly, there are pet thieves about, and while they are unlikely to make off with an entire hutch, it is a matter of a few seconds’ work to swipe the unprotected occupant.
Any run or exercise pen that you construct needs to be roofed. Rabbits can jump high, and predators can leap or scramble in. Then again, it is delightful to watch as Bunny wanders freely around your garden, but even supervised, a rabbit whose keeper takes their eye off the pet for a moment will escape through the tiniest of gaps. Making a garden fully escape-proof is hard to do and takes diligence. Wire mesh used in external fencing has to be lodged under the soil surface. Make sure, too, that your rabbit cannot access poisonous plants. There is a long list, and it includes many garden favourites. Here are just a few: poinsettias, cyclamen, garlic, foxglove, mistletoe, peony, rhododendron, periwinkle, boxwood, the china berry tree and even buttercups.
Quite apart from the risk of being poisoned, outdoor rabbits should be given a regular health-check. You can learn how precisely to carry this out yourself if you order the “Bunny MOT” leaflet from the Rabbit Welfare Association. Most owners know about the two most distressing diseases to affect rabbits – myxomatosis and VHD. These are both fatal, so there is no solution other than to maintain a regular vaccination programme. There is further unpleasant information that is nevertheless worth knowing about. Fly strike, a parasite attack which usually occurs in summer, takes place when a fly lays its eggs on your pet and the maggots, when they hatch, burrow into Bunny’s flesh. Also known as ‘myiasis’, it has been known to ‘strike’ even rabbits kept permanently indoors. Dirt, rotting food, faeces, decaying teeth and open wounds are can attract a fly which then chooses its spot for egg-laying. Both the blow-fly and the bot fly carry out this gruesome practice and it is therefore really worthwhile to check your rabbit regularly all over for fly eggs and for the tiny holes made by bot fly larvae. Lumps under the skin are another sign. You can remove flies’ eggs, but don’t leave it to chance. Take your rabbit to a vet, promptly. For prevention, the importance of keeping both your pet and his rabbit hutch clean cannot be overstated.
Once the three big issues for your pet of shelter, physical safety and disease prevention have been catered for, it is time for the most important aspect of rabbit ownership: building an ever-evolving relationship with your bunny – whether it lives indoors or out. Some websites that might be of interest include: www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk and www.rabbitwelfarefund.co.uk .
Keeping Miniature Bunnies at Home
Families with small children often decide that dwarf and miniature rabbits are a good choice. Everyone can pick them up and handle them and of course, they are cute! Singling out which of the smaller breeds to go for is not easy. It can of course be limited by the availability of breeders in your local area. Smaller rabbits are ideal for indoor rearing, of course. They can live in a manageable rabbit cage, rather like a guinea pig. What follows is a quick hop through the very smallest breeds.
Weighing a maximum of 2lbs 8oz, the Netherland Dwarf is the tiniest of all dwarf rabbits. While the male can be bad tempered, the doe Netherland Dwarf is known for her placid temperament, making her a good choice for young members of the family and she won’t require a particularly large rabbit cage. Not only the smallest, this is the rabbit breed with the largest number of possible colours. The Art Garfunkel song ‘Bright Eyes’ must surely have been composed in honour of this twinkly button-eyed little gem.
Also decidedly dinky is the rabbit sometimes referred to as ‘Polish’, the Britannia Petite. Very ‘classic ‘in shape, it is not unlike a miniature common rabbit. Among ‘standard’ rabbits the Britannia Petite, in keeping with its name really is the smallest. Often with a white coat and red eyes, they do come in other colours. Gentle handling of their delicate bodies is necessary, so they may not be suitable pets for the youngest family members. As they are very active and alert, they might not be content to spend too much time cooped up in a rabbit cage. Potential owners need to be aware of their reputation for giving little nips with their teeth!
Another very popular choice is the Mini Rex with its special coat. So fine are the hairs of its pelt, it feels just like velvet. Its ears are endearingly upright, as well as being quite short and chunky. Its bigger relative is the rex, and they share the same colour variations.
The charmingly named American Fuzzy Lop weighs up to 4lbs, when fully grown. The curiously flattened-looking face is sometimes likened to that of a bulldog, the other striking feature being of course those lop ears. They are fancied, too, for their long fur. Being what is known as a wool breed, they have to be groomed frequently. With rather a ‘hunched’ look, the American Fuzzy Lop may not be to everyone’s taste.
Not quite so well-known in the UK is the extremely friendly Himalayan, a rabbit distinguished not just by being miniature, but also because of its interesting colouring. The Himalayan, not surprisingly, given its name, has a white coat with black, blue, lilac, or chocolate markings. If you buy a youngster, you will see that there is a light grey tinge to its coat. This will grow out until it turns a snowy white. This is possibly the best choice of all for a cage rabbit.
Another little rabbit, the Holland Lop, isn’t always friendly, so with this one you pays your money … Interesting to look at, the distinguishing feature is a flattened head, making the eyes very far apart, combined with a large-looking body. The crown (the part of the head between its ears) is raised on the Holland Lop. Its lopped ears, deep-set eyes and soft coat make it popular.
Rarely weighing more than 3lbs 8oz, the Jersey Wooly is exceptionally fluffy. There is a bewildering array of possible colour combinations with this one. Interestingly, its face and ear fur is short, while the rest of its hair is thick, long and very soft. Not for the faint-hearted, these bunnies have specific dietary requirements and their coats need extra daily attention.
Once you have picked your small rabbit, you will be concerned to make the right investment in a suitable rabbit cage. A respectable decent-sized cage is likely to cost you from £45 to £109, with some exclusive styles, and two-storey versions with an internal ramp, costing more.
Once you have your rabbit cage, you will no doubt be tempted by the plethora of possible accessories. The bunny tent is just like a tiny one-man igloo tent and works as a great hideaway when the rabbit is in its run. Little squashy armchairs, rabbit beds of every conceivable shape, tubes to run through, the ultimate, balls to roll around which let dry food escape in small quantities, the latest in drinking bottles and non-tip feeding bowls, toys that rattle, and other fun items are waiting to fill up that rabbit cage, so no matter how miniature the rabbit you have acquired, where the cage is concerned, don’t get a small one!
How to choose a Rabbit Cage
We all cherish our homes, thinking of them as a refuge, a snug hideaway, a place to relax and to sleep off the stresses and tiredness which day brings. Human health, physical and mental, depends on having a secure, warm habitat. Pets are not so different from ourselves, if perhaps less consciously aware of the reasons they need for a designated ‘me’ space. In fact, if anything, our four -legged friends are even more territorial than we are, and can be quite compulsive in their behaviour towards their own spot.
In the case of rabbits, this is in fact one of the reasons for having one’s pet neutered. Female bunnies, in particular, can develop a rather aggressive habit of lunging at their handler when the door of the rabbit cage is opened. (Of course, if you have rabbits of both sexes you need to have them neutered. Additionally, non-neutered females invariably contract uterine cancer.) That aside, the importance of establishing a comfortable home for your pet cannot be overstated.
Options when it comes to purchasing a rabbit cage are surprisingly wide. In shape, size and construction materials, there is considerable variety. You can house your rabbit out of doors, but don’t forget that these are creatures which in their natural habitat would get to huddle together for warmth within the warren. Therefore, in bad weather it is best to cover the open mesh front. Equally, take precautions against excess heat and avoid a spot that is in direct sunlight.
All hutches need a nesting area with a solid front. This is for cosiness, privacy and darkness. The living area needs a chink-free mesh front with no ragged wire which could damage the occupant. Over time it is necessary to check for stray ends of wire or possible corrosion.
Not every owner chooses to go down the hutch route, but instead some keep their rabbits as house pets. This works fine once Bunny has been trained to use a litter tray. Of vital importance, though, is to have a secure cage for use when no owner is present. Equally, an indoor rabbit must have a sleeping area, the safest option being within the cage.
Inside the rabbit cage, the bedding material options are hay, straw and wood shavings (avoiding aromatic evergreens). Be aware that hay will need to be replenished, as Bunny munches his way through it. Among the really quite engaging accessories is the ‘Super Sleeper Critter Cuddl-E-Cup’. This is a diminutive pet bed lined with imitation lambs wool that has the benefit of being machine washable.
Life can be boring for our long-eared friends. However, they do spend a surprising amount of time eating. This is the way nature keeps their teeth from getting too long. To facilitate this natural eating pattern, hay is essential. Ways to prolong feeding time and reduce boredom including packing a helping of hay into a used water bottle or other narrow-necked container, or stringing up vegetables such as carrots so that they dangle from the cage roof.
Where possible, fresh grass (plucked no more than thirty minutes previously) should be provided. Best of all, give your rabbit access to grazing in the warmer weather. It is, besides, the best food for rabbits, and a great fibre provider. Keep dry food mixes to a minimum.
The domestic bunny when out of its rabbit cage and running around the house will tend to transfer its love of chewing to household objects, given half a chance. If you can’t instantly spot him, this may well be what he is up to. Some suggested solutions include smearing eucalyptus oil or lemon juice on items such as furniture that you know your rabbit tends to target. Whether in or out of the rabbit cage, a well-cared for bunny will give, and hopefully receive, many hundreds of hours of enjoyment in its (relatively) long life.
“The Live in Rabbit” Should I Keep my Rabbit Inside?
Increasingly, the approach being taken towards pet rabbit ownership is to treat them very similarly to guinea pigs and hamsters, i.e. as house pets. That said, no matter how greatly loved, not everyone wants the presence of their rabbit and its odours and little noises 24/7. One solution that suits everybody concerned is to give the rabbit time both in its outdoor (or outbuilding) hutch and time indoors. If this is what you opt for, you will need to make a suitable choice from the range of rabbit cages available. These of course can be obtained from a large number of online stores, including therabbithutchshop.co.uk, as well as high street retailers. These cages, constructed from plastic and metal, are for indoor use only.
In rabbit cages, a solid floor is preferable. Chafing of the feet can result from the mesh of a wire floor. Gauging your rabbit’s size is important when judging whether the cage door is large enough. Sometimes a side door is the better option as it is easier for large rabbits to get in and out.
While, on the one hand, a large rabbit living in an outdoor hutch should really have a home no smaller than five feet x two feet, the indoor cage may be a little smaller, since Bunny will not be spending a great deal of his time in it. The idea is to give your rabbit as many opportunities to run around and enjoy human companionship as possible by allowing him to live indoors. Obviously a cage in which he can be contained is necessary, especially when being left alone. If yours is an outdoor rabbit do nevertheless consider letting Bunny spend his nights in your house (unless the alternative is a good, ventilated yet snug alternative, such as an outhouse, conservatory, garage or utility room).
Top on every rabbit-centred website’s list of warnings is not to let the rabbit be exposed to possible predator attack. This where rabbit hutches, or for that matter rabbit cages, cannot be expected to do the job. Predators, by their very presence, are a threat to a rabbit’s life. Awareness of a fox, even a swooping owl, is enough to stop a rabbit’s heart. The inability to run away is unimaginably stress-inducing. Hence, unless you have very good reason to believe that no such predators ever enter your neighbourhood, the kind way to keep rabbits is inside a secure building, if not on your house itself.
Inside the cage or hutch, you really ought to give the rabbit a place to hide. A rabbit’s need to be screened off in a secure, enclosed space can be traced to life in the burrow. To address this natural urge, give your rabbit a nest or hide. It can take one of a variety of forms; one idea is a basket made from untreated wicker or cane; alternatively you might use a cat litter tray as a nest, or a cardboard box. If using the latter, a good idea is to cut an entrance hole. You can of course buy wooden versions of these small rabbit homes or hides. For snuggling inside his hide, hay is the obvious material for your rabbit, but likely to get eaten. You could choose a fabric such as artificial fleece or purchase a sisal mat. To be avoided are the shavings of evergreen due to the harmful oils which they emit.
In the extensive catalogue of rabbit accoutrements are also transporters especially designed for rabbits, roofed outdoor enclosures of various shapes, the more traditional apex run, playpens and rabbit beds. For rabbit devotees, the shopping possibilities are almost endless!
Rabbit Care Tips on the Web
Our pet rabbit friends – though they may not know it – are beneficiaries of the growing popularity of the World Wide Web. Owners young and old are tapping into advice and information about new products and care procedures etc., when they hop around the Internet. After those owners have got past the sites that are actually about the movie Watership Down and the sites devoted to Beatrix Potter, or to novelist John Updike who wrote Run, Rabbit, Run, there is no excuse for not being clued up on all aspects of bunny care. Added to that, the fact that ordering from afar then having your purchases shipped to your door is now such a common way to shop makes the choice wider than it has ever been.
Websites like www.happyhopper.co.uk, which advise rabbit owners, now abound. Obviously, these sites often double up as, or link to, the suppliers of rabbit cages, rabbit runs, rabbit accessories and rabbit food. Naturally, if you took all of the suggestions and offers on board, you could soon become an exhausted (and penniless) slave to your nose-twitching furry friend.
Indoor rabbit cages and playpens are among the products on our website www.the-rabbit-hutch-shop.com as well as being featured on many other company websites. Indoor rabbit cages made of plastic and/or metal are basically larger models of guinea pig cages. Since they give full 360 degree visibility – keeping all members of the family informed of Bunny’s activities – they are best used in conjunction with a hideaway, a darker mini-house, in which the bunny can nap. There are some fundamental points on which virtually all these websites are in agreement: rabbit cages need to be spacious enough, easy for a (possibly growing) rabbit to get in and out of and easily cleaned. Experts are also adamant that exercise and human contact time out of the cage are the very top priorities.
With rabbit cages and enclosures of all kinds, one inescapable requirement is to try to achieve maximum cleanliness. The best way is to litter-train Thumper, something you might not have imagined to be a possibility. This is not necessarily difficult, though it will of course vary from rabbit to rabbit. First, you need to obtain a litter tray and fill it with suitable material (which could comprise paper pulp, dry grass pellets or compressed sawdust pellets). You could add some droppings, to condition the rabbit to using the tray for ‘evacuating’, before placing it in the rabbit cage. Now, start watching where your rabbit is actually going ‘to the toilet’, if he didn’t choose the tray right from the start. Move the litter tray to this preferred spot. When the habit of using the tray in the cage has been established, the next stage is to let Bunny out of the cage in a demarcated area. In this area, too, you should now place a litter tray. When you detect that your rabbit is on the point of defecating or urinating, coax him at once towards the tray.
While you should definitely never scold or punish the rabbit for failing to ‘go’ in the right spot, rewards can be connected with behaviour in the mind of the rabbit, so you might therefore choose to give a treat, but you need to do this straight away, without delay.
Since rabbits at play tend to defecate frequently, it is a good idea to take your bunny on a little ‘visit’ to his tray as often as once every ten minutes. Owners fortunate enough to possess rabbits which have become fully litter trained end up with highly cleanable rabbit cages and hutches. As a bonus, they are able to allow their pets the run of the home. Be aware, nevertheless, that accidents will continue to happen, on occasion. Be tolerant and where possible remind without reprimand that the litter tray is the place to go.
For more tips on training rabbits, or on purchasing rabbit cages, pens, litter and other items, take a look at http://www.happyhopper.co.uk and www.therabbithouse.com.